Siding Installation Across the Bay Area

Whether you're cladding a new build or replacing tired siding on a house that's stood for decades, the choices that matter most come before the first board goes up.

Siding installation & replacementFiber cement, vinyl, wood & engineeredLarkspur, Marin County(415) 619-5167

Bay Area Siding Company installs siding on new construction and existing homes throughout the SF Bay Area. This page explains how the two kinds of projects differ, how to think through material choices, and what a sound installation includes behind the siding.

Planning new siding? Schedule a consultation and we'll help you scope it.

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New Construction Siding vs. Re-Siding an Existing Home

On new construction and major additions, the wall is open and accessible. Sheathing, water-resistive barrier (WRB), window flashing and siding can be sequenced in the right order from the start. The key is coordination. Windows need to be flashed into the WRB shingle-fashion so water always drains outward, and siding details at corners, belly bands and rooflines need to be planned before the WRB is covered. When that sequence is followed, the siding sits on a wall that was built to shed water.

Re-siding is a different job because you are inheriting someone else's work. A proper re-side starts with tearing off the old cladding down to the sheathing or substrate. That exposes the existing WRB and flashing, and it is often the first time anyone has seen them in decades. A common finding on older homes is building paper that has dried out or torn, or window and door heads that were never flashed. Another is sheathing that has softened where water has been getting behind the siding. None of that is visible from the street, and all of it should be addressed before new siding goes on.

Some homeowners ask about installing new siding over the old. It can reduce removal cost, but it hides the condition of the wall. It also builds out the thickness at windows and trim, which complicates flashing. In most cases we recommend a full tear-off so the assembly can be inspected and corrected. A re-side is also a natural time to consider window replacement. A full-frame (new-construction style) window install lets the new window flashing integrate directly with the new WRB, while a retrofit (insert) window fits inside the existing frame. Each approach has its place, and we'll explain which fits your wall.

Planning Your Siding Project

Which siding material fits my home?

Fiber cement is dimensionally stable, noncombustible and holds paint well, but it is heavy and requires specialized cutting and dust control. Vinyl suits budget-conscious projects where low maintenance and lower upfront cost matter. It never needs painting, though it must be hung loosely enough to expand and contract with temperature. Engineered wood such as LP SmartSide is lighter, easy to work, impact-resistant and has a real-wood look. Natural wood offers authentic character and is repairable board by board, and it asks for regular finish maintenance in return.

Does where I live in the Bay Area change the answer?

It can. Coastal homes deal with marine-layer moisture and salt air, so drainage details and corrosion-resistant fasteners matter more there. Inland valleys see stronger UV and heat, which affects paint and finish life and how much siding moves with temperature. Parcels in mapped fire-hazard zones may have added requirements for specific exterior assemblies.

Should the style match the house's era?

Usually, yes. Victorians and older homes often call for lap or shingle profiles with period trim. Eichlers and mid-century modern homes read best with vertical or clean panel profiles. Many 1950s–60s tract homes can take a wide range of styles. Matching the profile to the architecture tends to look right for longer than chasing a trend.

What if my house is stucco?

Converting stucco to siding is possible but is a larger scope. Stucco removal is heavier work, and the WRB, flashing and trim have to be rebuilt for a lapped cladding. We'll walk through whether repair, re-coating or conversion makes more sense for your home.

At a glance

Project typesNew construction, additions, and full re-siding of existing homes

Materials we installFiber cement, vinyl, natural wood and engineered wood

Assembly scopeTear-off to sheathing/substrate, WRB and flashing inspection and replacement, installation to manufacturer spec

PermitsRequirements confirmed with your local building department (AHJ) at permit time

Warranty (qualitative)Manufacturer limited warranties vary by product. James Hardie, for example, offers a transferable 30-year substrate and 15-year ColorPlus finish limited warranty.

What a Professional Siding Install Includes

Siding is the visible layer, but the water management happens underneath it. A professional install treats the wall as an assembly. The sheathing or substrate provides a sound nailing base. The WRB sheds any water that gets past the cladding. Flashing at windows, doors, penetrations and roof-to-wall intersections directs that water back out. If any of those layers fails, new siding only covers the problem.

Fastening and clearances matter just as much. Each manufacturer publishes installation instructions covering fastener type, spacing and penetration. They also specify clearances to grade, roofing, decks and hardscape, and how to treat butt joints and cut edges. Fiber cement butt joints are typically flashed behind or otherwise detailed so water can't wick in. Engineered wood needs cut edges sealed and prompt painting. Vinyl needs room to move, so it is nailed in the center of the slot rather than driven tight. Following those instructions is what keeps the product performing and its manufacturer warranty intact.

On exposed coastal walls, a rainscreen can be worth considering. Furring strips or a drainage mat create a small gap behind the siding so moisture can drain and dry. In seismic country, trim and sealant joints should allow for movement rather than locking materials together. On parcels shown in Cal Fire fire-hazard severity zone maps, California Building Code Chapter 7A can apply to specific exterior wall assemblies, vents and openings. We confirm what applies to your address with the AHJ.

What drives the cost of a siding installation

Size and complexity of the walls: square footage, number of stories, gables, dormers and corners.
Material and finish: the siding type, profile, and whether it's factory-finished or field-painted.
What the tear-off reveals: damaged sheathing, missing flashing or failed WRB that needs correction.
Removal and disposal: including testing and abatement if older siding or paint may contain asbestos or lead.
Detailing scope: window and door trim, rainscreen furring, and flashing at roof lines and decks.
Access and site requirements: scaffolding, hillside lots, tight setbacks, permits and fire-zone requirements.

Our Siding Installation Process

Consultation and estimate. We look at the house, discuss materials and goals, and give you a written scope explaining what's included and what could change.
Permits and preparation. We confirm permit and any fire-zone requirements with the AHJ, then protect landscaping, windows and the work area.
Tear-off to the substrate. Old siding comes off down to the sheathing or substrate so the existing WRB and flashing are fully exposed.
Inspect and correct. We check the sheathing, WRB and flashing and review anything we find with you before repairing damaged areas.
WRB and flashing. New WRB is lapped shingle-fashion and integrated with window, door, penetration and roof-to-wall flashing.
Siding installation to spec. Siding, trim and any rainscreen go on per the manufacturer's fastening, clearance and joint requirements.
Final walkthrough. We walk the house with you, address punch items, and leave the site clean.

Why Homeowners Choose Bay Area Siding Company

We're a Larkspur-based installer serving the Bay Area. Our approach is simple: get the wall right, then make it look right.

Assembly-first installs

Every re-side starts with a tear-off and a real inspection of the sheathing, WRB and flashing, not a cover-up.

Honest, clear scope

We explain the trade-offs between materials plainly, including when a lower-cost option will serve you well.

A direct line

Questions go straight to our team at (415) 619-5167 or info@bayareasidingco.com.

Other services we offer

Go deeper on a specific material or project type:

Siding replacement James Hardie fiber cement siding Vinyl siding See our projects

Siding Installation FAQ

Do I need a permit to re-side my house?

Many Bay Area jurisdictions require a permit for re-siding, especially when sheathing, windows or fire-zone assemblies are involved. Rules vary by city and county, so we confirm current requirements with your local building department at permit time.

Can new siding go over my existing siding?

Sometimes, but we generally recommend a tear-off. Covering old siding hides the condition of the sheathing, WRB and flashing and complicates window and trim details. Removal lets any hidden water damage be found and fixed.

My home is in a fire-hazard zone. What changes?

If your parcel falls within a mapped fire-hazard severity zone, California Building Code Chapter 7A can apply to specific exterior wall assemblies, vents and openings. It doesn't automatically dictate every choice for the whole house. We'll check the Cal Fire maps and confirm the requirements with the AHJ.

Is a rainscreen necessary near the coast?

It isn't required everywhere, but on walls exposed to wind-driven rain and persistent marine-layer moisture, a rainscreen gap helps siding drain and dry. We'll tell you where it adds real value and where a standard drainable WRB is sufficient.

Should I replace windows at the same time?

If your windows are nearing replacement, doing them during a re-side is efficient. A full-frame install lets window flashing tie directly into the new WRB. If your windows are in good shape, we flash and trim around them properly instead.

Ready to plan new siding for your Bay Area home? Request an estimate today.

Call (415) 619-5167