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Mobile & Manufactured Home Siding in the Bay Area

A manufactured home isn't a small stick-built house, so its walls, attachment points and permitting path need their own approach.

Manufactured & mobile homesVinyl, fiber cement & moreLarkspur, Marin County(415) 619-5167

Bay Area Siding Company re-sides manufactured and mobile homes across the Bay Area, from coastal parks to hot inland valleys. We start by learning how your home was built, then recommend a material and detailing plan that suits those walls. We don't start from a product we'd like to sell.

Planning to re-side a manufactured home? Request an estimate and we'll look at the walls first.

Call (415) 619-5167

How mobile-home siding differs from a site-built house

Most manufactured homes built since mid-1976 were built in a factory to the federal HUD code, not to the California Building Code that governs a site-built house. Wall framing, sheathing and how the original siding was attached all follow factory practice, and that practice has changed over the decades. On many older units, the original cladding is lap metal or an early vinyl. That cladding is often fastened over a thinner substrate than you'd find on a comparable site-built wall. Newer homes vary widely by manufacturer and model. The honest answer to "what's under my siding?" is that we confirm it on site before we price or specify anything.

That matters because siding is only as good as what it's fastened to. When older siding comes off, a common finding is a substrate that is serviceable in most areas but softened near the bottom edge, around window corners, or where the roof meets the wall. The water-resistive barrier (WRB) behind it may be patchy, brittle or missing in spots. Window flashing on factory-built walls is often minimal compared with current field practice. None of this is unusual, and none of it is a reason to panic. Each of these conditions just has to be found and corrected before new cladding goes on.

Weight and fastening are the other big differences. Vinyl is light and flexible, which is part of why it has long been the default on manufactured homes. Fiber cement and engineered wood are heavier and need solid fastening into structure at manufacturer-specified spacing. On a manufactured home, we check whether the wall framing and substrate can accept that fastening pattern before recommending them. Trim, skirting, and the transition where the wall meets the skirting also deserve attention. That joint is a place where water and pests can get in if it isn't detailed carefully.

Finally, the permitting path can be different. In California, the enforcement agency for manufactured homes, especially those in mobilehome parks, is often the state Department of Housing and Community Development (HCD) rather than the city or county building department. Some local agencies have taken over that role. We confirm which agency has jurisdiction, and what it requires, at permit time.

Questions to settle before you re-side

Vinyl or fiber cement for a manufactured home?

Vinyl suits budget-conscious projects where low maintenance and lower upfront cost matter. It's also light, which keeps demands on the wall modest, and it's forgiving of slight wall irregularities. Fiber cement offers a noncombustible board, strong paint-holding and a more substantial look. The trade-off is added weight and more demanding fastening and handling. Engineered wood such as LP SmartSide is another option: it's lighter than fiber cement, gives a real-wood appearance, resists impact well and is easy to work. Which one fits depends on your walls, your budget and your park or HOA rules.

Does my park or community have to approve it?

Often, yes. Many mobilehome parks and manufactured-home communities have rules on exterior materials, colors and even skirting. It's worth checking your park rules or asking management before choosing a product, and we're glad to help you put together the information they ask for.

Should windows or skirting be done at the same time?

If your windows are original or leaking, replacing them while the walls are open lets new flashing tie properly into the new WRB. That is harder to do well after the siding is on. Manufactured-home windows often come in specific sizes and mounting styles, so we confirm what fits before ordering. Re-skirting at the same time gives a cleaner transition at the base of the wall.

Is the home in a fire hazard zone?

Some Bay Area parks and rural parcels sit in areas mapped on Cal Fire's fire hazard severity zone maps. In those areas, ignition-resistant requirements can apply to exterior wall coverings and certain openings and vents. We check the maps and confirm the specifics with the enforcing agency, since that can shape the material choice.

At a glance
Common re-clad materialsVinyl and fiber cement; engineered wood where the walls suit it
Key constraintFactory wall construction and how much fastening and weight it can accept
Moisture detailsWRB continuity, window flashing and the wall-to-skirting transition
PermittingHCD or the local agency, depending on location; confirmed at permit time
Warranty (qualitative)Manufacturer limited warranties vary by product; James Hardie offers transferable 30-year substrate and 15-year ColorPlus finish limited warranties

What shapes the cost of re-siding a manufactured home

  • Material choice. Vinyl, engineered wood and fiber cement differ in product cost, labor and trim requirements.
  • Substrate and WRB condition. Softened substrate, missing barrier or poor flashing found at tear-off adds correction work.
  • Home size and configuration. Single-, double- or triple-section homes, plus add-ons like porches, carports and awnings that tie into the walls, all affect scope.
  • Windows, doors and skirting. Bundling these adds scope but avoids reopening the walls later.
  • Old siding removal. Removing and disposing of metal or older vinyl cladding, and the condition it's in, is part of the scope.
  • Permitting and fire-zone requirements. The enforcing agency and any ignition-resistant requirements affect materials and paperwork.

Our installation process

  1. Consultation and wall assessment. We walk the home, check park or HOA rules with you, look at how the existing siding is attached, and discuss materials that suit the construction.
  2. Permitting. We confirm whether HCD or the local building department has jurisdiction, check Cal Fire hazard mapping, and file for the required approvals.
  3. Careful removal. We remove the existing siding and trim down to the sheathing/substrate, protecting windows, utilities and landscaping as we go.
  4. Inspect substrate, WRB and flashing. We check the substrate for soft or damaged areas and assess the WRB. We also look closely at flashing at windows, doors, roof-to-wall joints and the base of the wall.
  5. Corrections and repairs. We replace deteriorated substrate sections and review any additional repairs with you before proceeding, so the scope stays clear.
  6. New WRB and flashing detailing. The new barrier is installed shingle-fashion so water sheds outward. Window and door flashing is integrated into it, and the wall-to-skirting transition is detailed to shed water.
  7. Installation to manufacturer spec, then walkthrough. We fasten and gap the cladding per the manufacturer's instructions (for example, vinyl hung loose enough to expand and contract) and finish trim and skirting. Then we walk the job with you.

Why homeowners choose Bay Area Siding Company

Manufactured homes need a contractor who looks at the wall before recommending the cladding. That's how we work.

Assembly-first approach

We treat the substrate, WRB and flashing as the real job, with the siding as the finish over a sound wall.

Honest material guidance

If vinyl is the right fit for your walls and budget, we'll say so. The same goes for fiber cement or engineered wood, and each gets a clear, written scope.

Marin-based, direct line

We're based in Larkspur, serve the Bay Area, and you can reach us directly at (415) 619-5167.

Other services we offer

Learn more about the materials and services that often come up on manufactured-home projects.

Mobile Home Siding FAQ

Can you install new siding over my old metal siding?

Covering old siding hides whatever is going on underneath, including damaged substrate or missing WRB. It can also create fastening and flashing problems. We generally recommend removal so the wall can be inspected and properly prepared, and we'll explain our reasoning for your specific home.

Is fiber cement too heavy for a manufactured home?

Not automatically. It depends on the wall framing, the substrate and whether the manufacturer's fastening requirements can be met. We assess this on site, and if the walls aren't a good match, we'll say so and discuss lighter options.

Does coastal or inland Bay Area weather change the recommendation?

It can. Near the coast, marine-layer moisture and salt air put a premium on careful WRB and flashing work and on corrosion-appropriate fasteners and trim. Inland, strong sun and heat make UV fade and vinyl's thermal movement more important, so color choice and correct fastening matter more there.

Who issues the permit for a manufactured home re-side?

For many manufactured homes, particularly in mobilehome parks, the enforcing agency is California's HCD. In some areas the local building department handles it. We confirm which agency applies and its current requirements when we pull the permit.

Ready to talk through siding options for your manufactured home? Schedule a consultation with our team.

Call (415) 619-5167

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Contact Us (415) 619-5167info@bayareasidingco.com529 Magnolia Ave
Larkspur, CA

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